Crich Heritage Partnership

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The Crich Trail
by Bill Crowther

Northern Loop (1½ miles, 60 minutes)

We suggest that you start by walking from the Market Place in a Northerly direction on the left footpath following the sign "To the Tramway Museum". On the left you will see the Mansion House, which although looking vaguely Elizabethan in style, dates only from the early 18th. Century. It was originally one, large house, but has been sub-divided into dwellings and workshops. Adjacent to the Mansion House pause for moment to read the plaque which has recently been erected to commemorate the Crich Mineral Railway built by George Stephenson, of whom we shall hear more later on our walk.

picture of mansion house

Mansion House

Opposite the Mansion House you will see Archway House which has been featured several times in the television series "Peak Practice". At one time it is understood that this was a coaching Inn called The White Swan. Old maps indicate that there was a whole range of buildings at the rear, access having been through the archway. These buildings were probably used as stables which were an essential part of a coaching inn. Next to Archway House, strangely enough, is the Black Swan public house.

Now carry on walking up the hill which is known as Bowns Hill named after a family connected with the Butterley Company in years past.

You are now following part of a route where two old turnpikes ran jointly. One being the Nottingham to Newhaven road dating from 1759, which ran from South Wingfield (Roe's Lane) and then turning left at Crich Cross proceeded down Bowns Hill (where you are now standing) and passed through the village centre bearing right up Sandy Lane through Whatstandwell and Longway Bank, Wirksworth and on to Newhaven The mile-stones found on this route are all made of local stone.

The other turnpike route has iron milestones, which you will pass later on. This turnpike ran from Cromford Bridge to Langley Mill and then on to Nottingham. It followed a course via Leashaw Road passing the Cliff Inn down Cromford Road to the Cross, where it joined the previously mentioned turnpike, down Bowns Hill to the centre of the village where it turned left along the Common to Bull Bridge. It is also interesting to note that the first meeting to discuss the formation of this turnpike took place in the Bulls Head public house in 1765/6. The Bulls Head is no longer in existence, but we will point out where it stood, later in the walk.

On your right is Mount Tabor Chapel, built in 1864 for non-conformist worship and not closed until 1983; it has now been lovingly converted into domestic property commanding a wonderful view to the East of the village. Visitors interested in B & B will receive a warm welcome here.

On the opposite side of the road stands a property known as The Mount, which dates back at least to the 17th. century, and has a fine example of a dovecote. On the other side of the road can be seen a building known as Candle Cottage. This was once a drapery shop. Next to it there used to be a bakery to which villagers could take their meals for cooking.
Walking on you will pass the National School, built in 1848, and now facing you, but on the other side of road, is a property that has recently received a new frontage. At one time it was a double fronted shop and was used in an episode filmed for "Peak Practice" when it had the name "Cardale Stores" boldly inscribed across the front.

picture of the cross

The Cross

You will now arrive at the recently closed florist's shop near Crich Cross. The present cross was designed and executed by a local stone mason by the name of Isaac Petts in 1871. However, poems written by local residents in the 19th. century indicate that the previous cross was of wood. It is claimed

that there has been a cross on this site since the late Celtic period and indeed between here and the church is where the cattle Market and Fair were established in the 1550s. Near here too was the local blacksmith's shop.

Now carefully cross the road and turn right down Roe's Lane following the road towards South Wingfield. On your left just past the former garage you will see an arch in the stone wall which is all that remains of a lime kiln for burning local lime stone. Many kilns are to be found in the district. Just past the kiln is a building that was the first Baptist Chapel in the village. It was known as Ebenezer Chapel and is another example of an excellent conversion to a private house, the name having been preserved as Ebenezer House. Opposite here, there used to stand a public house called The Greyhound and kept in 1846 by Joseph Roe, but all that remains of it today is the foundation of a private garage belonging to the property immediately behind it.

 

It is interesting to note that the two oldest quarries of the village were situated over the fields to the right. Warner's quarry (known locally as the Old Quarry) has been completely filled and Hilts quarry (opened 1844/45) is still in the process of being filled. Furthermore there was a mineral line running from these quarries down to lime kilns at Bullbridge. Originally the trucks on this line were horse-drawn on flat trackways. A man named Outram was connected with the supply of these rails, hence the word "TRAM"? Later, steam locomotives were used and it is recorded that one of the new locos arrived by rail on a special wagon at Ambergate station; a crane from Derby was brought to unload it, and it was then towed by traction engine on its own wheels to Fritchley, through which village the track passed.

remains of lime kiln

Remains of Lime Kiln

Now retrace your steps to the village cross at the top of the hill. This is a dangerous corner so it would be wise if you turn left, before crossing the road to the florist shop. After crossing, walk on past the Jovial Dutchman which stands on this junction where the cattle market used to be held; you can still see a rail for tethering beasts to the wall. This hostelry may have derived its name from a gentleman who came from the Netherlands, Sir Cornelius Vermuyden, who came here to give advice on the draining of lead mines. Continue on Cromford Road up the hill. The buildings on your right are amongst the oldest in the village. One, at least, is known originally to have been of cruck construction.

picture of wheatsheaf house

Wheatsheaf House

At the top end of this row of cottages you can see a field which is the site of one of our old quarries, known as Church Quarry (or Taylor's Quarry). This was filled comparatively recently. A little further up the hill on the left you will see Wheatsheaf House.

This used to be The Wheatsheaf Inn and it is believed that George Stephenson lived here with his great-aunt for a short time during the building of his mineral railway line in 1841. He personally supervised the
building of the railway which originally ran from Church Quarry down to lime kilns at Ambergate where coal was brought from Stephenson's pit at Clay Cross on the North Midland Railway.

Wheatsheaf Lane runs down the hill past Wheatsheaf House and if you walk a few yards down this lane, on your right you will find a passage leading through the cottages (public footpath); go through this passage on to a clapper bridge. Looking right you will see the tunnel opening which led into Church Quarry. When first opened the line ran from here and the trucks were horse- drawn. This line was subsequently extended to Cliff Quarry and was used for over 100 years, not being closed until 1957.

 

Returning to the main road our walk now takes us to the church, but in passing note the name of the new road on your left, Dowie Way. Dowie being the name of one of the steam locomotives used on the mineral line.

You now cross over the road to visit our church. The present building can be dated from between 1135 and 1154, but there was probably a hilltop pagan site of worship here before Christianity reached Crich. The North Aisle of the church is considered to be the earliest part. Dedicated to St. Mary, this is a most beautiful building, and worthy of more time than perhaps you have just now. But do please visit our church and enjoy its peace and beauty.

picture of tunnel to church quarry

Tunnel to Church Quarry

You now cross over the road to visit our church. The present building can be dated from between 1135 and 1154, but there was probably a hilltop pagan site of worship here before Christianity reached Crich. The North Aisle of the church is considered to be the earliest part. Dedicated to St. Mary, this is a most beautiful building, and worthy of more time than perhaps you have just now. But do please visit our church and enjoy its peace and beauty.

picture of entrance to john clay's barn

Entrance to John Clay's Barn

Leaving the church, turn left along the little lane leading to the burial ground. Another view of the infilled Church Quarry can be seen on your right; then on passing through a wooden gate in the wall on your left you will have a splendid view of Crich Stand as you walk through the burial ground. On the far side go through the wooden kissing-gate to an old barn which centuries ago belonged to Squire John Clay, who lived in property next to the church. This old barn is said by some to have been the resting place for one night for several Quakers who were being marched under military escort from Monyash to Derby Assizes; their "crime" having been to meet together illegally. Now leave the old barn, go through a squeezer stile and walk towards the road passing cottages on your left. When you reach the main road, ten yards along to your left is the old vicarage, now a private dwelling, standing at a right-angle to the road. Opposite is the site of The Bull's Head public house (mentioned earlier).

Cross the main road and turn to your right. As you continue walking you have another excellent view of Crich Stand. There have been at least four towers on top of this hill, we know that:-

A wooden one was erected in 1760 as a viewing platform by the Hurt family.

One built of lime stone, was erected by Francis Hurt in 1785. (An engraved stone built into the masonry of the present tower is inscribed "F.H. 1788".)

A gritstone tower was built in 1851 and was similar in style to the one on the Heights of Abraham at Matlock Bath. This was damaged by lightning.

The present tower, built in 1922-3 and officially opened in August 1923, is dedicated to the memory of the men who died in the Sherwood Foresters Regiment during the 1914-18 Great War.

Subsequently, the men in the same regiment who served in the 1939-45 war were also remembered. A Pilgrimage on the first Sunday in July each year is held at the Stand when officers from the Worcestershire and Sherwood Foresters Regiment gather for a short memorial service.

The part of the village through which you are now walking is known as "Town End". Do call at the shop on your left if you would like to sample a wonderful ice cream and you will then come to a T-junction. If you wish to climb up to the Stand, turn right here. The walk to the Stand and back will take you about 30 to 40 minutes extra and, if only for the view, is well worth the effort. It is said that on a clear day, Lincoln Cathedral can be seen.

However, if you decide against the climb on this occasion, turn left and you will shortly pass the entrance to Cliff Quarry and The National Tramway Museum, which no doubt you will wish to visit some other time. Cliff Quarry is situated immediately below the Stand and was opened for the extraction of limestone about 1841 when George Stephenson extended his mineral line to Cliff Quarry. The limestone was transported on his narrow gauge (3ft. 3" or 1 metre) mineral line to his Ambergate lime kilns where it was burnt and distributed by rail, road and the Cromford canal to wherever it was needed. Stephenson, in association with others, purchased land hereabouts and it is interesting to see his name appearing on old property deeds in the vicinity. The quarry is still being worked and has several years life left. The Tramway museum commenced activities in 1959 after the mineral line had closed and is a very popular visitor attraction of considerable historical interest.

Your route continues on the main road and over a bridge which was originally built to cross the mineral line and from where you can now obtain a good view of part of the Tramway Museum. The large building facade, which you can see, was originally part of the Assembly Rooms in Derby, damaged by a serious fire some years earlier. It was acquired by the Tramway Museum when Derby was modernising the city centre and building the new ring road in 1972. Looking left you can still see the route of the mineral line, which at this point was double track, working by gravity: the loaded trucks pulling the empty ones up the hill.

Walking on down the road you will see ahead the Cliff Inn which was converted from a farm house in the late nineteenth century. Approximately half a mile further on, towards Holloway, there was a severe landslip in 1882 which demolished several houses. Before you reach the pub (and unless you fancy "a quick one" at the Cliff Inn) turn left and immediately left again to follow the public footpath for Crich village.

Continuing along this lane, you will pass through a stile in a gateway close to a bungalow on your right and then after another gateway you enter an open field where, veering slightly left, you will continue in a straight line. Over to your left can be seen a new housing development, the largest ever in Crich. You will also notice a bridge that originally allowed farm access over the mineral railway. This field is called "Holywell" and when you reach the next gateway, if you leave the path for a moment and walk a few yards with your back to the bridge you will find a round stone trough which sadly has been broken. This is said to be part of a "holy well", from which water for the church and Town End would once have been taken.

Resuming your walk you will notice a very fine tree ahead, one of the few elms that withstood the onslaught of Dutch Elm disease. Before approaching it spare a moment to look behind for another excellent view of the Stand and the Church Spire now over to your right. These two landmarks can be seen for many miles around the village. Proceed forward and through a gateway into a lane between houses. This lane develops into a better surfaced road, known as Coast Hill, which seems an odd name for a road so far from the sea. Apparently the name is a corruption of an old French word, "la coste" meaning "the hill of trial", perhaps indicating that ancient courts were held in the vicinity. You will then pass another old vicarage and then the new vicarage and on the opposite side of the road can be seen a small railway bridge which used to carry the mineral line.

picture of stephenson's railway bridge

Stephenson's Railway Bridge

 

Resuming your walk you will notice a very fine tree ahead, one of the few elms that withstood the onslaught of Dutch Elm disease. Before approaching it spare a moment to look behind for another excellent view of the Stand and the Church Spire now over to your right. These two landmarks can be seen for many miles around the village. Proceed forward and through a gateway into a lane between houses. This lane develops into a better surfaced road, known as Coast Hill, which seems an odd name for a road so far from the sea. Apparently the name is a corruption of an old French word, "la coste" meaning "the hill of trial", perhaps indicating that ancient courts were held in the vicinity. You will then pass another old vicarage and then the new vicarage and on the opposite side of the road can be seen a small railway bridge which used to carry the mineral line.

It is worthwhile walking up the road on your right (Oakwell Drive) to see our new community centre, known as the Glebe Field Centre of which we are all very proud. Do pop in, if you wish, for a cup of coffee. After returning to Coast Hill continue your walk taking the first turning to the left and so back to the centre of the village, where your walk started. As you walk down towards the Market Place there used to be a very high archway here which carried the mineral line across this road, after which it entered a short tunnel taking it under Sandy Lane.